Brick Stitch

At ThreadABead we have many 2D patterns using freeform edges, and these patterns don’t tend to come with textual instructions or word charts. This is for several reasons.

• Word charts are time consuming for us to check, and we like to keep our patterns as error free and as low priced as possible.
• We love freeform designs, that is designs that have irregular edges. This makes word charts much more complicated to write up.
• Patterns can be beaded in Brick Stitch or Peyote stitch depending on beader preference*.
• If you know how to read a picture pattern, there is really no need for a word chart. Additionally, by following a picture you can see if you have picked up the wrong bead a lot quicker.

* You can choose to use either using Brick Stitch or Peyote as the same pattern can be used for both stitches, they are just followed in different ways. Although Peyote stitch is the more popular stitch and can technically be used it is much more complicated on a freeform design, so we always recommend they be attempted in Brick stitch as it is a more versatile stitch for irregular shapes.

Occasionally there are some of you who are yet to learn the skill of following a graphical pattern using Brick Stitch, and so are restricted heavily on what you can and can’t bead from our site. This just will not do!

So in this section we take you through how to Brick Stitch an irregular shaped design. You will see it is actually a very easy and useful skill to master and during the process you will create a beautiful pair of strawberry earrings.

We have aimed this document at beginners to beading and no prior knowledge of Brick Stitch is required.

The Chart

When you purchase a pattern from ThreadABead you will usually be faced with a chart like the one below:

Scary isn’t it? Where do you start! What are you supposed to do? Where are the word instructions?

These are all comments you may be thinking, and they are comments we have been sent in the past. It disappoints us no end that you may have gone to beading classes, even believe yourself to be experienced in Brick Stitch and yet cannot use your skills to bead from a design such as this. So, stick with us and by the end of the document you will find reading any graphical pattern and beading it in Brick stitch a breeze!

So firstly, you may also note that you usually get not one but two charts. They look the same, but one has letters on them. So, what is all this about? Well we need to tell you what bead colours to use and where. The second chart with the letters on shows you that for each bead with a letter ‘A’ on it will refer to the bead colour in the row where letter in the reference column matches the letter on the bead. In the case below the letter ‘A’ refers to the colour DB654 Dark Cranberry Opaque. It might be worth mentioning here that the word names for the delica colours can change over time and between bead shops but the codes do not.

So which pattern do you follow? It is entirely personal preference, some people just like to check the colours initially and then bead using the chart without the letters, some prefer to bead using the letters. Sometimes it is hard to differentiate between colours and so it is easier to use the pattern with letters on.

Instructions

Step 1

Firstly, as this is a small pattern we don’t need much thread, so use a piece of thread around 1 arm length long and thread on a beading needle. To measure 1 arm length hold the thread by your body and extend your arm outwards to its full length.

Note the larger the pattern the more thread you need. Try not to use more than 3 arm’s length in any working thread (that is thread you are currently using, i.e. not including the tail) as you can get into a tangle. If needed you can always tie in more thread later.

Step 2

We are beading using Brick Stitch, so we bead with the straight lines running horizontally. Take a look at the pattern above, as they are running vertically we need to rotate the pattern anti clockwise 90 degrees. As you can see from the image to the right the straight lines are now running horizontally.

Note: not all patterns need to be turned.

Step 3

As this is an irregular shaped pattern we always start from the middle of the beadwork and usually bead the longest two rows. So why do we do this? This gives us a good foundation to bead off and simplifies the pattern as we are not increasing or decreasing straight away.

So, in the image to the right we have identified two of the longest rows. Note there are several combinations of rows you could choose, but it does not really matter which ones you go for and it doesn’t even have to be in the exact centre of the pattern or the longest. Do try to choose rows where there is only half a bead overhanging on either side though, as these rows highlighted are.

Note: We have also removed the loop from the pattern. We add the loop at the end once the pattern is finished so we don’t need to worry about it yet

Step 4

So now we have decided the first two rows to bead, let’s work out how we are going to start beading!

We are going to start from the left and work in a right direction. Of course, you can also start a pattern from the right and work left, it is entirely your preference.

We always start the first two rows by picking up 3 beads. The first beads we will pick up will form a T shape, which we have highlighted:

Step 5

Now the order in which we pick up this T shape is very important. The 1st bead picked up will be the base of the T shape, the 2nd - the left most bead in the top of the T and the 3rd - the right most. Note if you are working right to left the base of the T would be at the top and the 2nd bead will be the right most, the 3rd the left most.

The arrow indicates the direction we will be working in once we have created the T shape. Note if the base of the T shape points upwards the thread will end up extending upwards.

Step 6

So, lets create the T shape!

Check the pattern to determine what beads to pick up.

With your needle pick up the beads 1f, 1f, 1b and position them so they are half way along your thread. i.e. there is around 1/2 arm length of thread on each side of the beads.

Step 7

Pass needle and thread back through the first bead picked up (1f), in the opposite direction to the direction it was originally threaded on in, as shown:

Step 8

Your beadwork should now look as shown: You may need to jiggle the beads slightly.

Note: Do not go onto the next step unless your 3 beads now look as shown.

Step 9

Now to complete the row! Note we are not using any Brick Stitch yet, that comes later….

As the thread is extending downwards we will be picking up the next bead on the bottom row. (it would be vice versa if the thread was extending upwards).

We will then alternate between adding a bead to the top row and then bottom until we get to the end. In the image to the right we have marked the beads we will be picking up in order.

Step 10

So, from Step 9, we are picking up the bead marked as ‘4’ which if you check is 1b

Pick up 1b and pass needle and thread up through the last bead picked up (bead marked as ‘3’), as shown:

Step 11

Note that now that the thread is extending upwards from the beadwork, so the next bead added will be to the top row.

So, from Step 9, we are picking up the bead marked as ‘5’ which if you check is 1d

Pick up 1d and pass needle and thread down through the last bead picked up (bead marked as ‘4’), as shown:

Step 12

Note that now that the thread is extending downwards from the beadwork, so the next bead added will be to the bottom row.

So, from Step 9, we are picking up the bead marked as ‘6’ which if you check is 1d

Pick up 1d and pass needle and thread up through the last bead picked up (bead marked as ‘5’), as shown:

Step 13

Continue along the row adding beads marked as 7-16 on Step 9. Check the pattern to determine the colour of the beads to pick up. They will be:

1d, 1c, 1d x 5, 1c, 1d, 1a

Your beadwork should now look as shown, and your thread is extending upwards. This completes the first two rows of the pattern and we will then use these rows to add further rows using Brick stitch.

Step 14

As the thread is extending upwards the new row we bead will be to the top of the beadwork. Additionally, as the thread is on the right side of the beadwork, the next row will be beaded right to left.

On the image to the right we have highlighted the row and marked the order of the beads we will be picking up.

Time to start using Brick Stitch ……

Step 15

When we begin a row using Brick Stitch we always bead the first 2 beads together. These beads are marked ‘1’ and ‘2’ on Step 14.

Firstly, tilt the beadwork towards you. You will see between the beads are loops of thread showing. When using Brick stitch, we use these loops to attach beads.

Now it is very important to note that bead ‘1’ is inset by half a bead to the previous row. When bead ‘1’ is inset by half a bead we need to use the second loop from where the needle and thread is extending. If bead ‘1 is overhanging by half a bead to the previous row we use the first loop.

Check the pattern to determine what beads to pick up. So, in this case the beads to pick up are 1d, 1c and pass needle and thread under the second loop, as shown:

Step 16

Now pass needle and thread back through the last bead picked up (1c), in the opposite direction to the direction it was picked up in, as shown:

Step 17

Your beadwork should now look as shown:

Note you may need to jiggle the beads with your needle so they sit nicely.

You have now added the first two beads of a row in Brick Stitch.

Step 18

We will now add the 3rd bead of the row (bead marked as ‘3’ in Step 14).

Check the pattern to determine what bead to pick up.

Pick up 1d and pass needle and thread through the next loop, as shown:

Step 19

Now pass needle and thread back through the last bead picked up, in the opposite direction to the direction it was picked up in, as shown:

You have now completed adding a single bead using Brick stitch.

Step 20

Using the previous two steps, add a further 4 beads. Check the pattern to determine the colour of the beads to pick up. These will be the beads marked 4-7 in Step 14.

The beads to pick up are 1d x 2, 1b x 2

Your row is now completed, and the beadwork should now look as shown:

Step 21

So once again we are starting a new row. Note as the thread is extending upwards and on the left side the row will be added above and going from left to right.

On the image to the right we have highlighted the row and marked the order of the beads we will be picking up.

Step 22

As we did on the last row, we will bead the first 2 beads together (the beads marked ‘1’ and ‘2’) – however as we mentioned in Step 15, we either need to use the first or second loop.

Look at the row on Step 21. See that the bead marked ‘1’ is overhanging by half a bead, as we discussed in Step 15 this means we use the first loop.

Check the pattern to determine the colour of the beads to pick up. Pick up 1b, 1d and pass needle and thread under the first loop, as shown:

Step 23

Now pass needle and thread back through the last bead picked up (1d), in the opposite direction to the direction it was picked up in, as shown:

Step 24

Using the technique in Step 18 & 19, add the remaining 4 beads. Check the pattern to determine the colour of the beads to pick up. These will be the beads marked 3-6 in Step 21.

The beads to pick up are 1d, 1c, 1d x 2

Step 25

Your beadwork should now look as shown:

Step 26

So once again we are starting a new row. Note as the thread is extending upwards and on the right side the row will be added above and going from right to left.

On the image to the right we have highlighted the row and marked the order of the beads we will be picking up.

Until now we have discussed adding the first 2 beads together and determining if there is an inset by half a bead or an overhang by half a bead to choose whether to pick up the second loop or first loop respectively.

But take a look at the first bead in the row. The beads are inset by 1.5 beads! What do we do here….

Step 27

Well we need to reposition the needle and thread, so it is extending from the bead that is one in from the bead the needle and thread is currently extending from.

So, pass needle and thread down through the next bead in previous row and continue into the bead to the bottom right of this bead, as shown:

Step 28

Now pass needle and thread up through the next bead in the current row that the needle and thread is extending from and continue up through the bead to the top right of this bead (the bead one row in from the bead the needle and thread was originally extending from in Step 26).

Step 29

Note as you are now one bead in, the first bead of the new row is now only inset by half a bead. So, you can add the first two beads using the second loop.

Note. If the inset was 2.5 beads you would need to reposition your needle and thread 2 beads in, 3.5 beads - 3 beads in .. etc

Check the pattern to determine the colour of the beads to pick up. Pick up 1d x 2 and pass needle and thread under the first loop (from the bead where the needle and thread are extending from) and pass needle and thread back through the last bead picked up (1d), in the opposite direction to the direction it was picked up in.

Step 30

Using the technique in Step 18 & 19, add the remaining 1 bead. Check the pattern to determine the colour of the bead to pick up. This will be the bead marked 3 in Step 26.

The bead to pick up is 1d

Your beadwork should now look as shown:

Step 31

Tie off thread. To do this pass needle and thread through several beads changing direction a couple of times, ensuring no thread is showing. Pull thread tight and snip taught thread with scissors as close to the beadwork as possible.

Add needle onto tail of thread.

Step 32

We are now going to work the remaining portion of the pattern using the tail of thread.

So once again we are starting a new row. Note as the thread is now extending downwards and on the left side the row will be added below and going from left to right.

On the image to the right we have highlighted the row and marked the order of the beads we will be picking up.

Step 33

So even though we are adding rows to the bottom of the beadwork, we are doing this is in the same way.

As the first bead is overhanging by half a bead we will add the first two beads using the first loop.

Check the pattern to determine the colour of the beads to pick up.

Step 34

Add the remaining beads (once again checking the pattern to determine the beads to pick up).

Your row is now completed and should now look as shown:

Step 35

Complete the remaining 3 rows of the pattern. Using the techniques, we have previously discussed:

• Determining which direction you are working in.
• If you are adding a row to the top or bottom of the beadwork
• Whether to pick up the first or second loop when adding the first 2 beads (or even if you need to reposition needle and thread to ensure your inset is still only half a bead)
• Consult the pattern to determine the colour of the beads to pick up.

If it helps, write on the chart the direction you are working in the and the order of beads you are planning to pick up.

Once completed your beadwork should now look as shown:

Step 36

Finally, it is time to add a loop!

There are many ways to add a loop. You could even use a wire guardian or a jump ring. However, in this example we will just do a normal loop of beads to attach the beadwork to an earring finding.

Reposition needle and thread so it is extending from the bead to the left of the first bead in the loop on the pattern, as shown:

Step 37

Pick up 7e beads and 1 x earring finding. Pass needle and thread through the first 1e bead picked up, in the opposite direction to the direction it was picked up in, and continue into bead to the right of the first bead in the loop on the pattern, as shown:

Pull thread tight so the beads form a nice small loop.

Step 38

Tie off thread.

Your beadwork should now look as shown! Repeat all steps to create another earring. However, try to just use the pattern instead of following each individual instruction.